Well, its been 5 days since last I posted to the blog. Problem is no internet access.
Cant even remember were I left off, but at the moment we are sitting in Santa Catherina. Hotel next to the M70, on our way to Tampico on the East Coast of Mexico.
Dropped the bike for the 3rd time today. Entrance to the hotel had some deep gravel, helmet over my arm, got snagged, and down the bike went. No issues….

Santa Catherina
Spent the night in La Paz at the Hacienda Bugumbilia. A little expensive, but well worth the expense. As we had screwed up our paper work, Matt and Mark went to the Immigartion office while I guarded the bikes. While waiting I met Dell, from Colorado. He was also on the ferry so we made arrangements to hook up with him there. When Mark and Matt got back, it was my turn. No problems, but a long process. Immigration for forms. Take the forms to the bank and pay the money to the boss. Take forms and receipt back to the immigration office. Wait for papers. Then off flying to the ferry dock about 10 miles out of town to get a temporary vehicle import permit. Mark and Matts were done before mine, so Mark went and stood in line for tickets..When he got to the counter Matt came running back to find out how far I was…..manyana….africa time….anyway, all the paper work got sorted out, and we drove onto the ferry. Consternation. We did not have any tie downs. ‘n Boer maak’n plan, and we were good to go.

ferry

ferry

ferry sunset
Spent 6 hours on the ferry (3-9) and met with Dell and his buddy Alejandro. When we got off the ferry, we headed for the town of Topolobampo. Alex and Dell decided on the Best Western, so the 3 of us took our leave and got a motel for $400, instead of 1050 per person. Started off at 300, but I asked Maatt to see if he could arrange a 3rd towel the guy rushed us for another 100….
Off early the next morning. Target Mazatlan.

mazatlan main beech
Made it there by 2 and had a great walk along the baech. Stopped at 2 beach cafes for cold ones, and then headed out again to find a hotel out of town. San Rosario…..
Off again on the trek….San Rosario to Guadalajara……Passed through the town of Tequila, where Matt bought a cask which they filled with 15 year old Tequila..


making tequila casks
They have tasting, but as we still had some riding to do, I decide to forgo the pleasure. Took us a while to find a motel in Guadelajare, but we did eventually. Interesting accomodations. Seems like the rooms were rented per hour. There were rules against the doors about child prostitution and a whole host of other stuff. A pamphlet in the room offered sex toys for sale. The room was great except our spanish let us down for the first time. Got 1 room with one bed. Matt opted (volunteered, was coerced….) into sleeping on the two chairs with a marble table between them. Each room had a garage, where we stored the bikes, but all night you could hear the garage doors opening and closing. Assignations, incognito,,,car in garage….dont know what goes on behind closed doors etc etc……Guadelajara is a city of +- 2.3 million. Traffic SUCKS big time, and Mark was pretty stressed by the time we checked in to the motel. Walked across the road to a sidewalk café….where we had dinner. We asked one of the guys there what he had ordered and after the description asked him to order 3 of the same. Bread (great…first bread in over 2 weeks) with leg meat on. Not sure what leg, but withttin the sauces, pickles, peppers etc sure did taste great. Back to the room for a bad nights sleep. I had the itches. Got sunburnt and my head is peeling so….Mark set the larma for 5:30…still dark, 6 still dark so 6:30 thought 3rd time lucky….got up, packed and headed out.
Our target for today was Santa Caterina, which unfortunately does not have a motel,. 5 miles down the drag we found the Hotel Paradise. 250 per night for 3 people. Hot water, but no internet (AGAIN). Crossed the tropic of cancer a day or 2 ago. No sign so no photy. Crossed the cntinental divide today, Major mountain pass. Warning signs about the highway of death and drive carefully and dongt get killed and drive extra carefully…..guess you get the idea. Mrk was out front, then Matt then me….After hs fall Matt has not got a lot of confidence in the turns, so it was a slow down hill. Gave me time for a few photos……What you need on a bike is a camera for left handed people or a helmet cam. Just make life so much easier. Think I got a few nice shots while coasting. Fantastic scenery…..its changed so much during our travels. Such vast amounts of land. A lot of it is cultivated, and different things grow in different areas. Maise, sugar cane, agarve, mangoes, and prickly pears are but a few. In general, Mexico has really bad smells, and is pretty badlt trashed. There are signs all over ‘ No tires basiru’……don’t litter, but nobody seems to pay much attention to them. There is a lot of trash along the roads, and gabage can about every 5 km or so. But people still stop their cars and dump black trash bags out along the road. As far as spped imites go, there are also signs that Say ‘Repect the pssed limits’ but no body keeps these. In a 40km/h zone, yiu can be doing 90mph, and go past either a federale od a plicia municipal, and they ignore you….just don’t go through a stop sign….At the entrace and exits from each town thay have VIBRADORES…..speed bumps. We call them vibrators. Smaller to large bumps getting closer together and then one high bump. The worst was about 2 feet high……hit that when you are not concentraing, and boy do you know all about it….
Will update this post tomorrow, We plan on leaving around 8, a short 5km down the road for breakfast and then on to Tampeco…..an easy days ride……
For those wondering, Panama has become an unattainable target, too little time….we have done 3618 miles in the 13 days since we left Seattle. Seen SO much, and have a list of what we would do differently next time.
1) Take Willie and Angelique with (with their own bikes) pack less clothes
and less spares (except fuses) , make certain that the chargers on he bikes work, and spend way more time. 300 miles seems like and eaxsy target, and it is, but if you want to smell the roses (or Mexico) you need to have more time or go for more attainable goals.
So tomorrow Tampico and then who knows,,,,,,,,head to the east cost of mexico, spend a day on the beach and then head back towards Seattle.
Day 4….Sana Catherina to Tampico…..
I vote that this was the best nights rest I have had since starting out. Had a few beers and Mark reckons they did the job….snored for the first time.
Today the riding was amazing. Started off getting up at 6. Mark brewed coffee, and after packing all the STUFF, we took to the road. Antontita was our first stop. 30 minutes…coffee at a sidewalk starbucks. Our spnaish is just passable, and most of the people appreciate the fact that we at least try. We have met many spanish folk that have at one time or another made their homes in the USA, so speak good english. The bikes are in general enough to start a conversation with most. We met one guy, who lived in Austin, who was waiting for his wife to arrive by bus. She was born in the us, and has never been to Mexico. When the guy met her she could apparently hardly speak spanish, so he blearnt english and she now speaks spanish pretty darn well.
Drove around the village, and down a cobbled road. Only went down to test the dual in sport of the klr. Didn’t drop the bike and it handled the cobbles well. Reminds me of the joke of th nuns, but that’s a story for later. We dropped down through 2 mountain passes from just over 6000ft to just over 300 ft. Roads were fantastid to ride. Lots of traffic. I wonder what Mexicos road death toll is. They don’t understand speed limits, or the fact that a solid yello line implies ‘DON’T PASS’ (no rebase)….anyway the whole day went off without incident. I will get hold of a map tomorrow and be more specific about the towns we road through. We have had some time on the toll roads, but the tolls are expensive, and you end up bypassing all the intersteing stuff along the way. So we have stuck mostly to the libre M80. After linch the traffic picked up, and we entered Tampico
Town smells. There is a large oil refinery, and it stinks up the whole place.We drove down to the beach and were planning on spending the night, but none of us was so taken that we decided to get out of dodge. So on about 50km, and ended up in a motel (Las Gardenias?) I think they also mainly rent rooms by the hour but the $400 for the night was a bargain so late. Walked around the corner to Martha’s Restaurant, for dinner. You want a beer, help yourself….just leave the bottles on the table so that she knows how many you have had. Mark had fillet pescadora (fish and chips) and Matt and I both had ranchero. Fried steak, beans and rice. We also had a complimentary bowl of noodle soup. 5 beers, 3 soups, and the 3 main courses were $195…exchange rate of 12.5 to 1…that’s less that us$20….ate like kings….but then again we missed out on dinner last night, so had some catching up to do. Most of our meals etc, have been at sidewalk stands. People obviously are not so hung up about hygiene and some of the place look rather suspect. However, when locals take their girlfriends/wives to dinner they eat at these places, they cant be all bad. Touch wood. None of us have had any problems (yet!!!!!!). Matt does handstands in the shower as he loves the hot stuff, and boy can you get it here. Todays lunch had 2 different habienero sauces on the table. I tried a litle drop as a test and decided against any additions.
Anyway today is over and we are on the gulf coast. Pacific to Sea of Cortes to gulf coast. Did not get to walk on the beach and tomorrow route will atke us a little more inland to somewhere near Monterrey……
Well we finally found a hotel that has internet access. Hacienda Real in LinaresRode from just outside of Tampico to Linares. Mostly flat, straight and few curves. Roads are very good. Stopped off along the way for breakfast (freshly squeezed orange juice+other stuff that I cant spell), and something to drink at the Tropic of Cancer café. Now I have been as far south as I have north. Ciudad Victoria was like any other large Mexican city. Rather dirty, and traffic wise very sucky. Most of the scenery was af farmlands. Oranges, onions, aloea for tequila, bananas and more. Matt seems to be gaining a little more confidence. Most of today was spent at 70+mph. Anyway we got into Limares at about 4pm, and booked into the hotel. A little pricey compared to what we have been paying, but with the swimming pool, worth every peso..
Asked someone to recommend a place to eat, which turned out not to be so great. Had a beer, and a little expensive food. Walked outside to street vendor, and added to the meal by having a something really tasty. Mark and Matt finished off with ice cream. Once this is done I am off to bed.
Tomorrow we head into the mountains, first stop Monterrey. And then up to Sabinas.
More tomorrow. and more photos